Author Archives: Satish Menon

6 Ways To Photograph The Invisible

Photography is commonly thought of the way to make an image of something seen by the eyes.  This is commonly true, of course.  However, photography is also capable of capturing images, not exactly visible to the eye.  In this post, I shall talk about six of them.  I call this post “6 Ways To Photograph The Invisible”.  By “invisible”, I mean that which cannot be seen exactly as depicted in the photograph.  Let’s begin.

1. ADJUSTING FOCAL LENGTH DURING A SLOW EXPOSURE

Consider this image I made at an apparel store, when my family was trying on clothes.

Apparel in Mall

Apparel in Mall

This image was created by using a slow shutter speed and zooming in (changing the focal length), during the exposure.  The metadata for this image is the following: Nikon D300, Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 lens, Aperture Priority, ISO 200, f10, 1/5 s, Hand-held, zooming the focal length constantly during the exposure.

While this photograph is interesting (at least to me), can you really see something like this with your eyes?  Therefore, I consider this to be the first way to photograph the invisible.

2. MOVING THE CAMERA DURING A SLOW EXPOSURE

Now, consider this image.

Road seen from a moving car

Road seen from a moving car

To make this photograph, I was sitting comfortably and legally in the passenger seat of a moving car, while a good friend drove the car.  The tripod was setup inside the car with the tripod/ball-head sticking out from the sunroof.  An electronic shutter release cable reached me comfortably.  Before starting the drive, I positioned the camera to look straight ahead, composing carefully to avoid the hood of the car, while at the same time pointing downwards, just enough to achieve the right balance between the ground, horizon and the sky.  After the drive began, I clicked over a thousand shots in that drive, to find a few keepers eventually.  The metadata for this shot is as follows: Nikon D300, Nikkor 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 lens, ISO 200, Aperture Priority, f25, 1/8 s, Gitzo 1340 Tripod, Kirk BH-1 Ballhead, Nikon electronic shutter release cable.

Such a scene is never visible to our naked eyes and therefore, I consider this to be my second way to photograph the invisible.

3. ALLOWING THE SUBJECT TO MOVE DURING A SLOW EXPOSURE

Consider this image of an Anise Swallowtail Butterfly.

Anise Swallowtail Butterfly

Anise Swallowtail Butterfly

I shot using my telephoto lens and adjusted the shutter speed to be slow enough to allow the movement of the wings to be captured.  The metadata for this image is as follows: Nikon D300, Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 lens, Nikon 2x Teleconverter, 400mm, ISO 200, Aperture Priority, f11, 1/80 s, Gitzo 1340 Tripod, Kirk BH-1 Ball-head.  In this case, it is also important to note that although the wings are not sharp indicating a sense of movement, the eyes are still sharp.  An entirely blurred butterfly will not cut it.  The sharp eyes allow you to connect with it, while the blurry wings indicate motion.

Since our eyes and memory do not have the ability to retain the past and combine it with the present, visually, one cannot see what this image has captured.  To me, this is the third way of photographing the invisible.

4. USING VERY HIGH SHUTTER SPEED DURING FAST ACTION

While we have so far seen how a slow shutter speed creates images not usually seen by the naked eye, a very high shutter speed can create equally interesting images that our eyes cannot see.

Take for example, this image of a snowy egret splashing water to catch its prey.  The high shutter speed has frozen the water in air.

Snowy Egret and frozen splash

Snowy Egret and frozen splash

The metadata for this image is as follows: Nikon D300, Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 lens, Nikon 2x teleconverter, ISO 200, Aperture Priority, f5.6, 1/800 s, Gitzo 1340 Tripod, Kirk BH-1 Ball-head.

Our eyes are incapable of freezing visual information that happened in a very short span of time such as 1/800 s.  Therefore, this is my fourth way of photographing the invisible.

Here is another image of a boy splashing water in the pool.  This cannot be seen by the human eye and yet can be captured by the camera.

Boy splashing water in pool

Boy splashing water in pool

The metadata for this image is as follows: Nikon D300, Nikkor 50mm f1.4 lens, Aperture Priority, ISO 200, f5.6, 1/160 s, Hand-held.

5. LONG EXPOSURE OF TRAFFIC TRAIL LIGHTS AT NIGHT

Traffic trail lights at night is quintessential image-making demonstrating the capture of that which cannot be seen.  Consider this Las Vegas Image.  The long exposure enables capture of the bright traffic lights (without exposing for the significantly darker vehicles themselves).

Las Vegas at Night

Las Vegas at Night

The metadata for this image is: Nikon D300, Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 lens, ISO 200, Aperture priority, f22, 14 s, Gitzo 1340 Tripod, Kirk BH-1 Ball-head, Nikon electronic shutter release cable (several exposures stacked together in Photoshop).

This is my fifth way to photograph the invisible.

Yet another traffic trail image of a local street near my home in San Jose, CA.

Traffic trails at night, San Jose, CA

Traffic trails at night, San Jose, CA

The metadata for this image is as follows: Nikon D300, Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 lens, Aperture Priority, ISO 200, f16, 15 s, Gitzo 1340 Tripod, Kirk BH-1 Ball-head, Nikon electronic shutter release cable (several exposures stacked together in Photoshop).

6. FINE APERTURE EXPOSURE OF NIGHT LIGHTS

Consider this image of Austin Downtown at Night.

Austin Downtown at Night

Austin Downtown at Night

The most prominent foreground of this image is the star pattern from the nearest street light.  Can you see a star pattern when you look at street lights with your naked eye?  Of course, not.  This is simply an optical phenomenon manifested in lenses.  If your aperture is f22, point light sources convert themselves into stars.  No, a star filter is not essential to get this effect (I have never used a star filter).  The metadata for this image is as follows: Nikon D300, Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 lens, Manual exposure mode, f22, Several exposures (1s, 2s, 4s, 8s, 15s, 30s, 1min, 2 min) composited using the HDR technique, Gitzo 1340 Tripod, Kirk BH-1 Ball-head, Nikon electronic shutter release cable.

This is my sixth way to photograph the invisible.

ABOUT ME – Hello, I am Satish Menon, founder of http://pixgaga.com.  Visit my website to learn more about me, see my image gallery or to listen to my student testimonials.

MY REQUEST TO YOU – If you have enjoyed reading this post and if this has perhaps triggered an expansion of your photographic vision, please forward this post to a photographer friend.  Also, if you practice other ways in which you photograph the invisible, please reply and share it here.  Lastly, if you are interested to receive digital photography tips from me on a regular basis, register at my website at: http://www.pixgaga.com/users/new.  I do conduct digital photography webinars (free), seminars and workshops, announced exclusively to my mailing list.

Foreground control is the hardest part in wide angle landscapes

When I first learnt about DSLR photography, I was told that the hardest lens to master how to use is the wide angle lens. I did not understand why. Now I know. A wide angle lens similar to my 17-35mm lens is one that makes the nearer objects much larger than our eyes see them, and the far off objects  are smaller than what our eyes see them.  As a result, even a slight shift in the camera position will result in major differences in the composition. Once you have found a suitable background for your image, small changes in the camera position will not impact the background much, but the objects that are very near the camera (the foreground), change massively in your image. If your landscape has a foreground, controlling it well is the key to good landscapes.

As soon as I got off my car during my lunch hour today, the top image is what I saw. I wanted to place the antique farm equipment as foreground, while placing the mustard field as my middle-ground and the distant trees/hills as the background. Before I even mounted my camera onto my tripod, I gauged the composition hand-held and once I felt satisfied with it, pulled out my tripod and adjusted it several times, until I was fully satisfied. In the end, I fired several bracketed exposures, that yielded the final HDR image shown at the bottom.

When you find a great middle-ground and background, spend time moving around to adjust your foreground, until you are very sure of your composition.

Image prior to adjusting position for foreground

Image after foreground positioning

 

When many things come together …

Grand Canyon Dawn in Winter

Grand Canyon Dawn in Winter

Many things came together that resulted in this image.

  1. Good light.  I almost thought that I would not get good light that morning.  It was dark, cold and cloudy.  However, the clouds just opened up and brought in some great light, just after sunrise.
  2. I found this rock as a foreground to lead the viewers into the image.
  3. There is tremendous depth.  You can examine the details from the foreground to the background and there is enough to see at every stage of your journey.

 

Marble Canyon, Arizona

Road and hills, Marble Canyon, Arizona, USA

Road and hills, Marble Canyon, Arizona, USA

Making this shot was an interesting experience.  When I was driving on this road, this composition occurred to me.  Stopped the car off the road and walked into the middle of the road to visualize some possibilities.  I tried several heights of the tripod – flat on the ground, at 1 feet height, 3 feet height and my eye level.  At each tripod height, I tried compositional variations and exposure variations.  Finally, this is the composition I selected.  The tripod is about 1 feet high (I think!).  To get end-to-end sharpness, I adjusted the aperture to f22.  Since this is a wide angle image, my 17-35mm f2.8 lens was used.  Of course, I used a remote release cable to open the shutter.  Gitzo 1340 tripod and Kirk BH-1 ball head provided the stability I needed.  My wife was extremely helpful – she stood by the side of the road and alerted me whenever a vehicle was approaching on the road.  All my attention was on the photographic technique and composition – she made sure that I did not get run over by a car.  Every time a vehicle approached, I lifted my tripod/camera and walked out of the road, then tried again.

Insect photography

Syrphid fly, Sunnyvale, CA, USA

Syrphid fly, Sunnyvale, CA, USA

 

There are a few options to make high magnification images of small things. Firstly, you may get yourself a dedicated macro lens. I would highly recommend the 200mm f4 macro lens. The 200mm focal length allows for sufficient working distance from the insects. A 100mm focal length option is much cheaper, but you have to get very close to the insects and they will fly away before you get your shot. The other option, if you already have the 70-200mm f2.8 lens is to add a Canon 500D diopter to it, to make it focus close. This is what I do. The third alternative is to add an extension tube (available from Kenko) to the 70-200mm f2.8 option and thereby reduce the minimum focusing distance to enable macro photography. Once you get the right lens, your next challenge is to hand-hold and shoot these insects. At macro focusing distances, you hardly have any depth of field. Shooting at f22 is a necessity to get the whole insect in sharp focus. This challenges the shutter speed. You deal with it by setting the shutter speed to 1/250 s manually and using an external speedlight to provide the lighting. This is how I photographed the Syrphid fly shown here.

Although it requires special skills, once mastered macro photography can be very joyful.

I will be covering the macro technique in detail in the “Advanced DSLR Seminar” coming up.

Night shot of Las Vegas

Las Vegas at Night

Las Vegas at Night

As I walked around Las Vegas last December, a large number of Las Vegas tourists stopped beside me and wondered about my night photography technique. It is quite simple.
1. Use a tripod.
2. Trip shutter with a remote trigger.
3. Use the manual exposure mo…de. Set the aperture to f22, for an image like this, to get extensive depth of field.
4. Attempt various shutter speeds to explore effects.
5. Make several frames, so that you capture a variety of traffic patterns.
6. Stack the captures in photoshop.

I go through all this in great detail and walk my students through it step-by-step in the Advanced DSLR Seminar coming up in March. Also, I will take a handful of registered students with me and walk around San Francisco doing night shots in my San Francisco Night Workshop, also coming up in March.

 

Colorado River, Marble Canyon, Arizona

Colorado River, Marble Canyon, Arizona, USA

Colorado River, Marble Canyon, Arizona, USA

A view of the Colorado River that created the Grand Canyon as seen from Marble Canyon in Arizona.  This small image that fits the blog format does not do justice to the image.  Click on it to see it in larger size.  This image is a stitch of 3 separate shots.  I teach this stitching technique in the Advanced DSLR class that I just announced.

The joy of macro photography

Water drops inside plastic bottle

Water drops inside plastic bottle

It is liberating to see great images everywhere. Just observe the insides of your water bottle when it is partially filled with water. If this bottle is lying in your car for a while, you might see this. I saw it one day and decided to park the car on the side of the road for about 15 minutes and captured this image. Just before writing this post, I saw similar bubbles on the surface of the coffee I am drinking. Watch for a similar image brown in color (the coffee surface) soon … Hope you like this one …

I will be conducting an advanced seminar on DSLR covering wildlife, macro and night photography along with HDR techniques, Composites and Panoramic imaging on Saturday, March 2, 2013. You can register for it if you like.  This seminar will be in San Jose, CA.

In search of light …

Light is key.

I was photographing around Lake Powell in the Glen Canyon National Recreational area in December 2012.  This image was made one evening.  The light was not spectacular.

Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, Arizona, USA

Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, Arizona, USA

I came back the next morning and this is what I was able to make.

 

Silhouetted rock and warm morning sky, Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, Arizona, USA

Silhouetted rock and warm morning sky, Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, Arizona, USA

Light matters.

Three Palm Trees

After photographing the hills at Lake Havasu in Arizona, at sunrise, I turned around to return. I was struck by these palm trees, freshly lit by the morning sun. I instantly made this composition with three of them forming a triangle. Bracketed several exposures and combined them using HDR Efex Pro 2 to give it this tone-mapped look. This is one of my favorites from my December shoot – an unplanned image … Hope you like it.

Palm Trees at Lake Havasu

Palm Trees, Lake Havasu, Arizona, USA